One area I see a lot of anglers and manufacturers mess up (IMHO) is with their use of trailer hooks. I tend to lean toward not using them in many instances, but that's not the point I want to contend. Instead it is the size of the trailer hooks most commonly used - they're overkill.
Nearly all the manufacturers who provide or sell trailer hooks do so in sizes similar to the main hook, notably sizes 2/0 through 5/0. Big mistake in my opinion that will cost you fish. Same with the rubber sleeve they usually supply as a way to attach and lock the hook in place - again wrong IMO. The absolute best trailer hook I've used, and the only one I'll attach to any of my baits, is a smaller size 1 limerick style hook. I tend to use the Mustad version, models 31010 or 8260D, primarily because I have a lifetime supply of these hooks. These hooks cost $0.08 a piece and come in packages of 100 for $7.99. Compare that to a package of traditional trailer hooks which cost about $3.59 for 5 of them. I use the tin hooks just because that was what I could find in the area at the time, but they do make a bronze version if that is a psychological hangup for you. Being tin, you can also take a black Sharpie and easily color the metal as an option.
The picture above has the hook I use on top, and a traditional 2/0 trailer that comes packaged with many lures below. I wish I had a 3/0 or 4/0 size hook to compare against to show the differences more dramatically. Regardless, the advantages include a smaller diameter wire and smaller barb for better hook penetration. It still has a nearly 1.25" length though which is all the extra length you need in a trailer hook. Smaller size also means easier to hide on the bait, plus less weight to offset any possible running issues and more room for a plastic trailer if desired. Finally, smaller profile means it comes through heavier cover better which is a primary reason people tend to shy away from adding trailer hooks to many of their baits in the first place.
As for installation, forget the rubber or plastic rings that get supplied. Simply take a pliers and slightly offset the wire hook eye where it meets the main shaft and slip over the baits primary hook, then clamp to close the circular gap just small enough so that it can't slide back over the large main hook barb. Trust me, it won't go anywhere once you have it installed correctly. This will allow the hook to move around and swing as needed, plus the fish won't have any extra leverage to possibly throw the trailer should that be the only hook that sticks him.
Like everything else in bass fishing, you can hang with the masses and stick to the "traditional" way of doing things if you'd like, or if it makes you feel more comfortable. But, I've been using this setup for nearly 20 years now and can assure you it is the real deal that will put put more fish in the boat for you, especially come tournament time.
Brian,
I think you hit it on the head....leverage. I use a similar approach. I use a smaller trailer hook too, but not as small as you use. I may try that. I usually put the trailer on, then put the rubber stop on. I use the rubber stop so the hook won't come off verses clamping down the eyelet. The trailer still moves freely up and down the main hook.
I haven't had any bad luck, but I may try your approach. By not putting on the rubber stop, I may get that many more hook ups.
Posted by: Dustin | March 15, 2010 at 12:57 AM